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More Cuba, Dec 2011 – 197
A single of the fairly couple of examples of large-scale graffitti that I observed in old Havana …
This is a 2nd set of a few hundred photos taken in Havana, Cuba in December 2011. The 1st set, which included what I felt were the best 100 photographs of the 3500+ photos, was uploaded earlier. You can locate it here on Flickr.
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As I proposed in my first set of Cuba photos on Flickr, the idea of traveling to Cuba is — at the very least for numerous People in america these days — possibly like that of traveling to North Korea. It is off-limits, forbidden by the authorities — and frankly, why would anybody trouble? But for a person like me, who expended his childhood in the Cold War era of the nineteen fifties, and who went off to school just after Castro took power, and just prior to the Bay of Pigs and the Cuban missile crisis, the notion of traveling to Cuba has completely diverse overtones.
And but Cuba is only 90 miles absent from Crucial West (as we had been reminded so typically in the 1960s), and its environment is presumably no different than a dozen of Caribbean islands I have visited more than the a long time. Quite a few pals have created quasi-authorized trips to Cuba over the many years, flying in from Canada or Mexico, and they have all returned with fabulous images and great stories of a vibrant, colorful region. So, when the people at the Santa Fe Photographic Workshops sent out a recognize in November 2011, saying a series of photograph workshops in Havana, we couldn’t resist the temptation to indication up.
Getting into Cuba turned out to be trivial: an overnight keep in Miami, a 45-moment chartered flight operated by American Airways, and customs/immigration formalities that turned out to be cursory or non-existent. By mid-afternoon, our group was checked into the Parque Central Lodge in downtown Havana — wherever the rooms have been spacious, the services was friendly, the food was reasonably tasty, the rum was delightful, and the World wide web was … nicely, gradual and expensive.
We had been warned that that some of our American conveniences — like credit score cards — would not be readily available, and we were well prepared for a pretty spartan week. But no issue how prepared we may have been intellectually, it requires a although to alter to a land with no Skype, no Blackberry services, no iPhone service, no telephone-based Twitter, Facebook, or Google+. I was perfectly joyful that there had been no Burger Kings, no Pizza Huts, no Wendys, no Starbuck’s, and MacDonalds. There was Coke (common), but no Diet Coke (or Coke Gentle). There ended up also no police sirens, no ambulance sirens, and no church bells. There ended up no iPods, and therefore no evidence of folks plugged into their songs by means of the skinny white earplugs that Apple supplies with their devices. No iPads, no Kindles, no Nooks, no … well, you get the photograph. (It is also worth noting that, with U.S. travelers now commencing to enter the nation in bigger amounts, Cuba looks to be on the cusp of a "modern" invasion if I arrive back listed here in a couple a long time, I fully assume to see Kentucky Fried Chicken retailers on each corner.)
But there were lots of pleasant folks in Havana, crowding the streets, peering out of windows and doorways, laughing and shouting and waving at buddies and strangers alike. Absolutely everyone was nicely-dressed in clean outfits (the proof of which could be observed in the countless lines of garments hanging from laundry lines strung from wall to wall, all over the place) but there had been no designer jeans, no fancy sneakers, no heavy jewelry, and no sign of ostentatious apparel of any type. Like some other producing international locations, the individuals were occasionally a small also friendly — constantly giving a taxi ride, a pedicab journey, a small trade of the "official" currency (convertible pesos, or "cuqs") for the "local" forex (pesos), a excellent meal or a excellent drink at a close by restaurant or bar, a haircut, a manicure, or just a little … umm, nicely, friendship (provides for which ran the gamut of "sen?or" to "amigo" to "my friend"). On the street, you usually felt you had been in the land of the hustle but if you smiled, shook your head, and politely mentioned, "no," people typically smiled and back again off.
As for the photography: well, I was in 1 of a few distinct workshop teams, each of which had roughly a dozen participants. The three dozen personal photographers were effectively equipped with all of the most current Nikon and Canon gear, and they typically focused on a handful of subjects: structures and architecture, ballet practice sessions, cockfights, boxing matches, rodeos, fishing villages, outdated automobiles, interiors of people’s households, road scenes, and folks. Plenty of people. As in every single other portion of the globe I have visited, the people ended up the most exciting. We saw younger and outdated, men and women, boisterous kids, grizzled elders, police officers, bus motorists, and folks of nearly every single conceivable race.
The streets have been clear, however not spotless and the streets were jammed, with bicycles and motorbikes and pedi-cabs, taxis, buses, horse-and-carriages, pedestrians, dogs (lots of dogs, a lot of sleeping peacefully in the center of a sidewalk), and even a handful of folks on roller skates. And, as anybody who has observed photographs of Havana knows, there ended up a lot and lots and A lot of previous automobiles. Plymouths, Pontiacs, Dodges, Buicks, and Chevys, alongside with the occasional Cadillac. A number of ended up aged and rusted, but most had been renovated, fixed, and repainted — typically in garishly vibrant colours from every spectrum of the rainbow. Cherry pink, hearth-motor red, Sunkist orange, lime green, turquoise and every shade of blue, orange, brown, and a good deal much more that I have most likely forgotten. All of us in the picture workshop succumbed to the temptation to photograph the vehicles when we 1st arrived … but they ended up almost everywhere, every single day, anywhere we went, and at some point we all suffered from sensory overload. (For what it can be value, 1 of our workshop colleagues had visited Cuba 8 many years ago, and instructed us that at the time, there had been only old automobiles in sight now around 50 percent of the vehicles are far more-or-much less modern day Kia’s, Audis, Russian Ladas, and other "generic" compact vehicles.)
The a single factor I wasn’t well prepared for in Havana was the sense of decay: nearly no present day buildings, no skyscrapers, and very small evidence of renovation. There ended up a number of monstrous, hideous, classic-nineteen fifties buildings that oozed "Russia" from each pore. But the rest of the structures date again to the 40s, the 30s, the 20s, or even the switch of the previous century. Some have been crumbling, some had been just facades some confirmed evidence of the sort of salt-drinking water erosion that a single sees in the vicinity of the ocean. But a lot of basically appeared previous and decrepit, with peeling paint and broken stones, like the run-down buildings in whatsoever slum you happen to be common with in North The usa. A single has a quite strong sensation of a town that was vibrant and lovely all for the duration of the previous half of the 19th century, and the 1st fifty percent of the twentieth century — and then time stopped useless in its tracks.
Why that occurred, and what’s getting accomplished about it, is a thing I did not have a likelihood to examine there was a standard reluctance to talk about politics in excellent detail. Some of Havana seems to be like the significantly less-affluent locations of other Caribbean cities and some of it is presumably the immediate and/or indirect outcome of a 50 %-century of U.S. embargo. But some of it appears to be the consequence of the collapse of the Soviet Union in the early 1990s, and the subsequent collapse of overseas aid that Cuba depended upon.
As for my very own photographs: I did not go to the ballet follow sessions, nor did I see the rodeo. I did see some intriguing graffiti on a number of partitions, which I photographed but for some purpose, I missed nearly all of the quite a few political billboards and stylized paintings of Che Guevera on structures and walls. What I focused on as a substitute was the "street scenes" of individuals and properties and cars, which will hopefully give you a feeling of what the place is like.
Get pleasure from!